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Almaty or Bust! |
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Part Eleven: Uzbekistan
Quick facts from the CIA World Handbook Population: 25,981,647 (July 2003 est.) Of all the countries of Central Asia, Uzbekistan stands out. It is the most historically rich country, as it houses the ancient cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. It is the most populous country. It houses the largest agricultural area in the region (though, thanks to stupid Soviet planners, a lot of this has disappeared over the years). And, in the last few years, it has played a pivotal role in the U.S. war on terror, serving as a base for American military intervention into Afghanistan and gaining international financial and military backing against the terrorist organizations within its borders. But despite all these positives, travelers to Uzbekistan will find a country that is barely removed from the repressive policies of Soviet times. Its leader, Islam Karimov, was a Soviet puppet before his country's independence and has sought to not only dominate his own country (often in repressive, violent ways) but has plans to dominate all the other Central Asian republics as well. More significantly (at least, as far as his people are concerned), he has taken every step he can to curb the rise of Islam in this very religious country, going as far as to shut down all but official mosques. It's no wonder, then, that he's fostered a sense of disillusionment in his people, a disillusionment that has seeped into the musical culture that is significantly intertwined with Islam's (and Central Asia's) history. Read Theodore Levin's book, The Hundred Thousand Fools of God, and you'll understand that Uzbekistan is home to the finest traditional musicians in Central Asia--people like Turgun Alimatov (above), Munajat Yulchieva, and many others. These artists practice a very ancient art form known as the shash mugam, or classical Islamic court music from the glory days of Samarkand and Bukhara. As Nationmaster.com notes, "The name, which translates as six maqams refers to the structure of the music, which contains six sections in different musical modes, similar to classical Persian music. Interludes of spoken Sufi poetry interrupt the music, typically beginning at a low register and gradually ascending to a climax before calming back down to the beginning tone." The music was created by court musicians for the edification of the various emirs and other rulers of Bukhara and Samarkand, rulers who might have been brutal monsters but could appreciate a good tune when they heard it. When the Russians (later Soviets) took over control of this region, they held onto the mugam as a way to foster national pride. However, as Levin notes, all they really ended up doing was turning this Islamic music into a boring copy of Russian classical music, complete with European harmonics. [There's a brutally boring version of the harmonic mugam on the accompanying CD in Levin's book if you're interested in hearing this; the CD also includes many different versions of more traditional mugam pieces to demonstrate how wonderful the music can be when performed correctly.] In the post-Soviet era, even the fake mugam is disappearing (thanks to a lack of funding for the classical arts); it's being supplanted by pop and rock music in the eyes and ears of the younger Uzbeks. While there's nothing inherently bad about rock music gaining wider access in a formerly Soviet part of the world, it is sad to see a culture's traditions slowly die out at a time when the people of Uzbekistan are yearning to carve out a new identity for themselves. This is especially sad because the music that Uzbeks have to offer is so rich and so beautiful. Half of the Central Asian music I own comes from Uzbekistan, and I own only a sliver of what is out there. Perhaps the solution is to find artists who understand the traditions but can also interpret those traditions in new ways, blending the best of the past with the best of the present. One such Uzbek artist is Sevara Nazarkhan (above), whose RealWorld release, Yol Bolsin, combines Peter Gabriel-esque pop with traditional Uzbek instrumentation. Nazarkhan also released an album of more traditional music, Gozal Dema. Both are well worth checking out. The Registan of Samarkand: one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. It was built by Tamarlane, who made Samarkand his capital. Amazingly, the Soviets didn't destroy this monument, so those lucky enough to visit Uzbekistan can still see it. This is Bukhara. For centuries, the goal of countless European explorers was to catch a glimpse of Bukhara and Samarkand. Most who tried were killed before they ever got there; those who saw it often paid for the pleasure with their lives. It was a dangerous place back in the 18th and 19th centuries. Sadly, it still is. |
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